Published Dec. 26, 2007, in The Livingston Enterprise,
Livingston, Montana
Bicyclists soak up China knowledge - literally
EDITOR'S NOTE: Former Livingston resident Jim Durfey, a 2000
Park High School graduate, has been bicycling through Asia with a
group of friends. Below is an un update on their journey. The
Enterprise will periodically post his accounts of the trek.
By Jim Durfey
For The Enterprise
CHINA - On our third day biking out of Beijing, the
rain started. We stopped to spread waterproofing over our luggage and
ourselves. I was already so soaked, I forewent my raincoat. The rain
only pelted down faster. It seemed to rise up out of the ground and
gush out of our fenders. We couldn't ride behind each other. Earlier
we had found a road built on top of a dike. The water pooled in the
road. Cars passing us created wakes over a foot high. "Gosh," said
Drew, one of my fellow riders, "for being on a dike, we sure are
wet."
When my friends and I decided to bike from
Beijing, China, to Paris, France, biking on a flooded dike wasn't
what we had in mind. We were hoping for knowledge. We wanted to know
of Asia and its people what you can't get learn from a book. We
counted on surprises. But what continues to surprise me is the extent
to which biking forces knowledge on you, whether you like it or not.
After the rainstorm, I had soaked up so much knowledge about weather
in Northeast China, my hands looked like I'd swum across the Yellow
River.
Until we began the trip, we were
unaware of the sorts of knowledge available for those willing to
bicycle across a country. As we biked south, we ignored fluctuations
in crops and harvest times at our peril. Fields alive with the
excitement of harvest made for great views. But farmers spread crops
like rice on the road to dry. Swerving around a pile of corn forces
one to note details bus or train passengers might miss.
I have also ground up the muscle-burning hills
of Southern China on a bike. Only Lance Armstrong and people using
motor vehicles fail to notice hills. As we drifted south, the crops
tended towards rice as the landscape tended away from flat. In
Guangdong Province, in the deep south, banana trees and sugar cane
greeted us. We knew we had successfully escaped snow.
Foreigners in China cannot escape becoming
celebrities. At least they can't if they travel in groups of five on
heavily loaded bicycles to areas rarely visited by foreigners. Last
week, I stood in front of a crowd of 500-some high school students.
The headmaster of the school had asked that I come and speak. I have
no qualifications to address such a crowd, but merely being a
foreigner in China exposes one to such opportunities. Lack of
credentials withstanding, I explained our reasons for doing the
trip.
"We
want to increase understanding between our two and other countries,"
I said in English, and then translated into Chinese when the students
claimed they didn't understand.
I threw in a bit about not merely worrying about
money when it came to goals in life. And so goes my public speaking
career.
Everywhere we go, large numbers of
people gather around us. School children mob our tables when we eat.
They follow us back to our cheap accommodations for the night. Mostly,
they're curious. I often answer the same questions over and over
again. However, with celebrity comes added hospitality.
In between the north and south, one Mr. Deng invited
us into his house for tea. I was tired and wanted to go bed, but he
made it hard to refuse. We sat down with him and drank Wulong tea. One
of the finer brands of Chinese tea, Wulong tea leaves are pressed
together after harvest, aged, and form hard chunks. A unique
characteristic of Wulong tea is that the flavor becomes stronger the
more times you steep it. As he poured it, Mr. Deng explained how the
tea we were drinking symbolized friendship.
"At first," he said, "the
flavor is very light, just like when we first met we were reserved.
But with each steeping it gets stronger," he continued, "just like
we open up and connect with each other the longer we know each
other."
Long-term relationships, unfortunately, are not
facilitated by living in a different city, village, or rice paddy
every night. My four friends and I have other plans for our lives. We
can't bike forever. But while the trip lasts, we will bike through
Southeast Asia, India, and perhaps beyond. Whatever situation we find
ourselves in, we will continue trying to extract all of its flavor in
whatever time we have.
We will probably run into more tea and
more rain. We'll do our best to experience both fully and report
back. But for the experience itself, we have only our bikes and our
hosts to thank.

Former Livingston resident Jim Durfey, right, talks with Chinese people curious about his bike trip across Asia with friends.
Photo courtesy of Jim Durfey, but actually taken by Peter Ehresmann